| "This is the disciple who is bearing witness to these things, and who has written these things; and we know that his testimony is true." John 21:24 |
| “The Charlotte Observer” July 23, 2006 "It's a country within a city" Surrounded by Rome, Vatican City has its own money, stamps, train station By John Bordsen Travel Editor |
Jeffrey Kirby, a 31-year-old seminarian from Columbia, has lived in Vatican City for three years, attending the North American College. He
is to be ordained as a Roman Catholic priest next July.
Q. Do you live in Vatican City – or in Rome, which surrounds it?
Actually in Vatican City, on the Janiculum Hill, the hill next to what was Vatican Hill. The Republic of Italy built a highway that separates
us from the rest of Vatican City: When you walk into St. Peter’s Square, look to the left and you’ll see a high building with a hill. We’re next
to that. We’re sort of like a Vatican colony.
Q. Is Vatican City much different from Rome?
It is. The Holy See – the official name for the government of Vatican City – is adamant about this distinction. Before you enter St. Peter’s
Square, you see a series of markers and barricades. That’s the international boundary. This is to stress that the church’s teachings, and the
See, are not based on any form of government but rather the teachings of the Catholic Church. Besides our own euro and stamps, the Vatican
has its own helipad, its own train station and its own local government. The Vatican exchanges its own ambassadors and has a permanent
ambassador at the United Nations, which it could join as a sovereign state if it wishes.
It is the smallest sovereign state in the world; you could fit eight Vatican Cities into New York’s Central Park.
Q. The Swiss Guard, in their Renaissance uniforms, are visual standouts in the Vatican. But do the priests and others there wear their
“uniforms”?
In ceremonies, you see the Swiss Guard in their traditional costumes, designed by Michelangelo. But their only commission is to guard the
person of the pope; when he goes somewhere, they go along in plainclothes.
They’re not well-decorated clowns; they’re well-trained soldiers. For every one you see in a ceremonial uniform, there are probably three in
plainclothes.
Most priests who work in the Vatican are in the curia, the pope’s “cabinet”; they’ll be wearing their “clericals” – slacks and a clerical shirt.
They wear their cassocks only if attending the pope or for a high occasion. You do see a large number of nuns who do wear their habits.
You see this all over Rome, not just the Vatican, because of the heavily Catholic environment. In Italy, for instance, they fly the national flag
at half mast on Easter Sunday.
Q. Can you look at someone and tell what religious order they’re from?
Absolutely. And a lot of times, their nationality. Rome is the center of the world as in the old expression, “All roads lead to Rome.” You see
Asians, Africans, people from Latin America, the United States and all the European cultures. It’s colorful, but serious.
Q. You live in a time-honored part of an ancient city. Is the Vatican also modern?
We’re definitely in modern Rome. Built for the 2000 jubilee is a parking lot – and parking lots are the new thing in Italy.
The building I live in was built in 1950. The American seminary left during World War II; after the war, Pious XII asked the Americans to
come back. We chose Janiculum Hill to rebuild.
It’s one of the nicest areas of Rome, naturally beautiful and known as an artistic center. The previous seminary was down by the Trevi
Fountain, which dates to the late 1700s or so.
Q. As “staff,” do tourists stop to ask you questions?
All the time. Some are serious: Can I go to confession? Can you bless this rosary? We can’t do these things until we are ordained, by the way.
Some questions are mundane: How do we get to the Vatican Museum? Where can we go to eat? We’re happy to answer questions.
Q. OK. So where do you eat?
I like to joke by replying, “I’m assuming you want to eat Italian. …” Living here for three years, my favorite is a German place near the
Spanish Steps. There are only three German restaurants in Rome.
What’s good for Italian? Try Pollezze’s, near the Chiesa Nuova – “New Church,” built in the 17th century. For Romans, that’s still new.
A famous place to eat is Abbruzzi’s, near the Dodieci – which means “twelve,” short for the Church of the 12 Apostles. It’s especially famous
for its green sambuca liqueur. The restaurant is housed in what was the palace of the exiled King James of England (known as the “Old
Pretender,” 1688-1766).
Q. How many churches are in Vatican City?
There are only two parishes: St. Peter’s and St. Ann’s.
In the city of Rome, there are almost 400 active parishes. Active means they have regular Sunday Mass and a congregation. This doesn’t
include the many chapels.
Q. All those churches and so little time. What do you recommend seeing?
Even though it’s the most popular church, I would recommend St. Peter’s Basilica. You should really walk it, and that would take almost half
a day. Sometimes people fly in and out, especially if they’re on a tour. But the Basilica took almost 120 years to build – five architects,
including some of the best of the Renaissance and Baroque periods. We’re talking about Maderno, Bernini, Michelangelo. …
Some say it’s still being built. They’re always adding statues and making renovations.
Q. Is there a better day to go?
You definitely want to avoid Wednesday; the day of the pope’s audience. That and Thursday tend to be crazy.
Go early in the morning or late in the afternoon to miss the tour groups. They’re not allowed in until 9 a.m., but the basilica opens at 7. That’
s one of the best times: All the priests are saying Mass; there are 44 altars, and mass is said in almost all the major languages. The morning
light is coming in and reflecting off the marble; there’s an enchantment about the building. If you’re looking for a spiritual encounter there,
go in the morning.
Or, late in the afternoon. Normally it closes around 6 p.m. After 4:30, the tour groups are gone and the place is yours.
Q. One more place?
Immaculate Conception church, off the Piazza Barberini. It’s near the American Embassy. In an area called “Little America” – there’s a
Blockbuster, Subway, Hard Rock Café and Planet Hollywood in the area.
Most people refer to this one as the “Bone Church”: It has a chapel that is made completely of human bones. The chandeliers are made of
bone; the decoration in the chapel is of human bone. I took my mother there, and she walked right out! She hasn’t forgiven me for taking her
there. Many who know about it prefer not to go there.
But it is a very peaceful place. You see the skeletons of the friars, still in their habits.
You see human mortality – death – looking at our faces. At the end of the chapel is a little sign written in all the major languages that says,
“What you are, we once were; what we are, you will one day be.”
It’s a nice spiritual lesson: One day this journey is going to end.
It’s just a reminder to the guests at the church: We all die…so live life.
is to be ordained as a Roman Catholic priest next July.
Q. Do you live in Vatican City – or in Rome, which surrounds it?
Actually in Vatican City, on the Janiculum Hill, the hill next to what was Vatican Hill. The Republic of Italy built a highway that separates
us from the rest of Vatican City: When you walk into St. Peter’s Square, look to the left and you’ll see a high building with a hill. We’re next
to that. We’re sort of like a Vatican colony.
Q. Is Vatican City much different from Rome?
It is. The Holy See – the official name for the government of Vatican City – is adamant about this distinction. Before you enter St. Peter’s
Square, you see a series of markers and barricades. That’s the international boundary. This is to stress that the church’s teachings, and the
See, are not based on any form of government but rather the teachings of the Catholic Church. Besides our own euro and stamps, the Vatican
has its own helipad, its own train station and its own local government. The Vatican exchanges its own ambassadors and has a permanent
ambassador at the United Nations, which it could join as a sovereign state if it wishes.
It is the smallest sovereign state in the world; you could fit eight Vatican Cities into New York’s Central Park.
Q. The Swiss Guard, in their Renaissance uniforms, are visual standouts in the Vatican. But do the priests and others there wear their
“uniforms”?
In ceremonies, you see the Swiss Guard in their traditional costumes, designed by Michelangelo. But their only commission is to guard the
person of the pope; when he goes somewhere, they go along in plainclothes.
They’re not well-decorated clowns; they’re well-trained soldiers. For every one you see in a ceremonial uniform, there are probably three in
plainclothes.
Most priests who work in the Vatican are in the curia, the pope’s “cabinet”; they’ll be wearing their “clericals” – slacks and a clerical shirt.
They wear their cassocks only if attending the pope or for a high occasion. You do see a large number of nuns who do wear their habits.
You see this all over Rome, not just the Vatican, because of the heavily Catholic environment. In Italy, for instance, they fly the national flag
at half mast on Easter Sunday.
Q. Can you look at someone and tell what religious order they’re from?
Absolutely. And a lot of times, their nationality. Rome is the center of the world as in the old expression, “All roads lead to Rome.” You see
Asians, Africans, people from Latin America, the United States and all the European cultures. It’s colorful, but serious.
Q. You live in a time-honored part of an ancient city. Is the Vatican also modern?
We’re definitely in modern Rome. Built for the 2000 jubilee is a parking lot – and parking lots are the new thing in Italy.
The building I live in was built in 1950. The American seminary left during World War II; after the war, Pious XII asked the Americans to
come back. We chose Janiculum Hill to rebuild.
It’s one of the nicest areas of Rome, naturally beautiful and known as an artistic center. The previous seminary was down by the Trevi
Fountain, which dates to the late 1700s or so.
Q. As “staff,” do tourists stop to ask you questions?
All the time. Some are serious: Can I go to confession? Can you bless this rosary? We can’t do these things until we are ordained, by the way.
Some questions are mundane: How do we get to the Vatican Museum? Where can we go to eat? We’re happy to answer questions.
Q. OK. So where do you eat?
I like to joke by replying, “I’m assuming you want to eat Italian. …” Living here for three years, my favorite is a German place near the
Spanish Steps. There are only three German restaurants in Rome.
What’s good for Italian? Try Pollezze’s, near the Chiesa Nuova – “New Church,” built in the 17th century. For Romans, that’s still new.
A famous place to eat is Abbruzzi’s, near the Dodieci – which means “twelve,” short for the Church of the 12 Apostles. It’s especially famous
for its green sambuca liqueur. The restaurant is housed in what was the palace of the exiled King James of England (known as the “Old
Pretender,” 1688-1766).
Q. How many churches are in Vatican City?
There are only two parishes: St. Peter’s and St. Ann’s.
In the city of Rome, there are almost 400 active parishes. Active means they have regular Sunday Mass and a congregation. This doesn’t
include the many chapels.
Q. All those churches and so little time. What do you recommend seeing?
Even though it’s the most popular church, I would recommend St. Peter’s Basilica. You should really walk it, and that would take almost half
a day. Sometimes people fly in and out, especially if they’re on a tour. But the Basilica took almost 120 years to build – five architects,
including some of the best of the Renaissance and Baroque periods. We’re talking about Maderno, Bernini, Michelangelo. …
Some say it’s still being built. They’re always adding statues and making renovations.
Q. Is there a better day to go?
You definitely want to avoid Wednesday; the day of the pope’s audience. That and Thursday tend to be crazy.
Go early in the morning or late in the afternoon to miss the tour groups. They’re not allowed in until 9 a.m., but the basilica opens at 7. That’
s one of the best times: All the priests are saying Mass; there are 44 altars, and mass is said in almost all the major languages. The morning
light is coming in and reflecting off the marble; there’s an enchantment about the building. If you’re looking for a spiritual encounter there,
go in the morning.
Or, late in the afternoon. Normally it closes around 6 p.m. After 4:30, the tour groups are gone and the place is yours.
Q. One more place?
Immaculate Conception church, off the Piazza Barberini. It’s near the American Embassy. In an area called “Little America” – there’s a
Blockbuster, Subway, Hard Rock Café and Planet Hollywood in the area.
Most people refer to this one as the “Bone Church”: It has a chapel that is made completely of human bones. The chandeliers are made of
bone; the decoration in the chapel is of human bone. I took my mother there, and she walked right out! She hasn’t forgiven me for taking her
there. Many who know about it prefer not to go there.
But it is a very peaceful place. You see the skeletons of the friars, still in their habits.
You see human mortality – death – looking at our faces. At the end of the chapel is a little sign written in all the major languages that says,
“What you are, we once were; what we are, you will one day be.”
It’s a nice spiritual lesson: One day this journey is going to end.
It’s just a reminder to the guests at the church: We all die…so live life.
